The Colorado Statesman Feb. 13, 2004

By Catherine O’Neil Thorn

The Colorado Statesman
Full-bodied, decadent and rich,
with sumptuous aromas of cedar,
scorched earth and graphite.
Beautifully displayed,
with just a mouthful of character
that swirls around to a
long, sweet finish.
Drink now.

Some wine labels read like poetry, with definitions that are both intriguing and sensual. Wine is, in fact, so provocative that The Colorado Statesman has decided to devote a monthly column to it. As stated in the introduction, I will provide you with some interesting reflections on the various wines available locally and throughout the state. I’ll even cover a little bit about the wineries that produced them and the local merchants who stock them. Above all, though, you’ll get a taste for the taste of a few good wines each month. Naturally, true to our calling, that taste will be laced with a bit of political spice.
I’m still working on this new vocabulary I apparently need to master, so you will find descriptions that are hardly the norm for wine aficionados. What you will find is a poetic take on the highly-regarded art form of wining.

On my first foray into the world of wine, I attended a wine tasting and cooking class with Rep. Tom Plant, D-Nederland, at Flagstaff House in Boulder. The confidence and competence of the management and staff, all of whom observe food as an event, made the event a celebration, and exquisite wine was present for each of the three performances.

Mark Monette, executive chef of this family-run business, conducted the class and William Snowden, a wine representative for National Distributing, discussed the wines available. All three wines, including champagne, where from the Domaine Carneros winery in California.

Scott Monette, Mark’s brother and general manager of the restaurant, informed us that although 85 percent of diners order wine with their meal, most order the wine they prefer before dinner, as opposed to deciding based on the chosen entrée. He stressed that at Flagstaff, which has the “largest wine list in Colorado,” their wine stewards are “friendly and not snobbish” (recognizing, I suppose, that choosing from a 160-page book of wine could be intimidating!).

Not to worry with champagne. As Snowden told us, it goes with everything, including french fries. Consequently, choosing the right bottle is more about style than about the grape.

That there is more to wine than picking a grape (so to speak) was confirmed during a recent discussion with international poet and wine expert Christopher Middleton. As he explained, in France the same grape grown only a few kilometers apart can taste completely different due to the varieties of French soils and the many ways of growing, harvesting and ageing the wine. (See the March column for a list of superb and inexpensive French wines.)

Getting back to California, however, prior to the meal we were served a 1999 Brut Cuvee. Neither Rep. Plant nor I are big fans of white wine – even if it does sparkle. In fact, Tom quietly confessed that the only white wine he drank at home was beer. But I have to admit, for a bantamweight, it was a pretty tasty bubbly.
During dinner, we also were treated to my favorite kind of wine – a complex 2000 Pinot Noir (good with pork as well as fish – of which we had both).
The meal was so delicious, that for his birthday Tom replicated it in its entirety, down to creating his own shredded filo with a pasta maker. Talk about ambitious! But what do you expect from a politician/geologist who skis, hikes, mountain bikes, and sits on the Appropriations committee and JBC? He didn’t mention which wine he served with the meal. Champagne, Pinot Noir or beer…“the other white wine.”
But the highlight for me was the champagne, 1996 Le Rêve, which was indeed like a dream. It was as described by Snowden, “delicate, light and feminine” (and my preference, as already stated, runs more to “deep, firm and rich”). But this fantastic wine touched the tongue and seemingly just floated away. I guess some things don’t need to work as hard at making an impact.
As is my wont, I study all labels avidly. This one promised, among other things, “an exceedingly long, creamy finish.” Being a poet and especially enamored of provocative words, I simply had to read it aloud, effectively silencing the entire banquet table. What can I say? I have a gift.
And speaking of gifts, this is the place to go if you either want to impress someone or impress upon someone how special they are. While you’re doing the impressing, be sure to select a great champagne like Le Rêve (and don’t forget to read the label out loud).(photo caption)
The Monette brothers, General Manager Scott (L) and Executive Chef Mark (R), flank Rep. Tom Plant, D-Nederland, at the award-winning Flagstaff House.